Ask a Pool Operator
do you really need to vacuum a pool if you swepp it every day
Answer:
Not sure what the difference is between vacuuming and sweeping. However, vacuuming is important for the debris that would otherwise dissolve or at least leach organic material into the pool. This in turn will use up the chlorine that you add to the pool more quickly. Therefore, vacuuming is ultimately saving you money.
I clean the pool every day yet they feel slime, whats up
Answer:
The slimy feel can be a result of unbalanced water. Total Alkalinity, pH and hardness are key parameters to balance so that the water is not scale forming or aggressive. Also, maintaining a proper sanitizer level (chlorine) is important. There are secondary chemicals that can be added that tout the advantage of affecting the feel of the water. Borates, for example, affect the feel of the water to make it feel soft.
Can you please tell me how much chlorine to add to a 16'x48" pool? Any other maintenance information is also appreciated.
Answer:
Unfortunately, that depends on the type of chlorine. The active ingredient in particular - because there are different types with different percentages of active chlorine. There should be instructions on every bag/container of pool chlorine with dosage information.
We just started to open are pool for the summer. it is very green, we did use algecide..we used some chlorine and we did use some shock we have been running the filter for about 3 days now and no change in color.it did have alot of live bug and stuff when we started but they are gone now, it just looks like dark water, it looked greenish when i started scooping out the leaves but now it comes out cleanish.. I have scooped out a bunch of leaves and debris. can you help..please.. it is an intex above ground pool 15x18 we found a frog in it while cleaning it.
Answer:
Unfortunately, clean up of this extent is not typically quick and can be labor intensive. Once the large debris is gone, top up the water and get it balanced and start adding algaecide for green or all algae as well as chlorine (be carefull to follow instructions carefully for algaecide as it may go in particular order with your chlorine). The water balance and filtering should clear it up, but again it is not a particularly quick process. It may take a few days to clear up from this point. If it is not improving daily, you should check the filter. It may need to be cleaned or not getting enough pressure, etc. Proper filtration along with the chemical treatments is the key to your recovery.
does an outdoor swimming pool have to be drained if there\'s duck poop found in the salt water pool?
Answer:
Not necessarily. Treat it with high chlorine for an extended period (24 hrs or more) like a human fecal contamination.
wE WILL BE AWAY FROM THE MIDDLE OF MAY UNTIL THE MIDDLE OF OCT. iS THERE ANYWAY WE CAN JUST SHUT DOWN THE POOL WHILE WE ARE AWAY INSTEAD OF PAYING SOMEONE TO TAKE CARE OF IT. iT IS A SALT WATER POOL?
Answer:
The pool can be closed like you were winterizing it. Obviously there is no concern with freeze at this point. It may also require additional chlorine than during winter months due to the warmer temps.
my eyes burn every time i swim in the pool, what do i add to help?
Answer:
Eye irritation typically occurs from to much combined chlorine and not enough free chlorine and/or pH outside the ideal range. Check to make sure there is enough free chlorine and that your total chlorine is equal to free chlorine (no combined chlorine). Also test to be sure the pH is between 7.2 and 7.8.
I bought a photometer "Exact Micro 7+" to measure PH, alkalinity and chlorine, but when I measure a sample that contains water from multiple points of the pool, the results are not the same as when I measure a sample from only one point of the pool. This photometer was originally build to take one sample from a particular point of the pool, but I want to know if I can trust more on the results from a sample of a bottle that contains mixed water of multiple points of the pool.
Answer:
As long as there is proper circulation in the pool, it should test nearly the same from one spot to the next as long as there are no dead spots from lack of circulation. A sample bottle taken out should also measure very similarly to the rest of the pool. Be aware that the sample could also change after 30 minutes or more, so only a fresh sample should be used for comparison to the actual pool sample.
back to my staining problem. I have had the water checked for metals and have tried different removers. I don't add water very often. When I open my pool for the season its fine for the first few days, then the staining starts and its a problem all season long.
Answer:
Does the 1st staining happen to coincide with the addition of sanitizer (chlorine), say within 24 hours? If so, it could be starting the staining. That could also indicate a problem with a metal that is not tested by the pool stores such as magnesium or silver.
I took a water sample and was told combined chlorine is to high . they told me to add 18 lb of alkalinity booster. then add hardness increaser.then add 4 lb of shock with or without chlorine.does this sound correct since the combined is high now.
Answer:
The shock is certainly appropriate given the combined chlorine situation. The alkalinity booster and hardness increaser are not directly related to the combined chlorine and are likely addressing low alkalinity and hardness levels in addition to the combined chlorine problem. As far as the amounts go, that would depend on the size of the pool and the amount of water being treated.
we did not close our pool last year and it is full of green water with leaves in the bottom.. Tadpoles and bugs live there too. How do I clean it the quickest and most economical way
Answer:
Removing the large debris (leaves and tadpoles, etc.) manually would be the first step. You probably do not want to vac and filter this out unless you can bypass the filter with the waste. Unfortunately, clean up of this extent is not typically quick and is labor intensive. Once the large debris is gone, top up the water and get it balanced and start adding algaecide for green or all algae as well as chlorine (follow instructions carefully for algaecide may go in particular order with your chlorine). The water balance and filtering should clear it up, but again it is not a particularly quick process. It may take a few days to clear up from this point.
To answer your questions about my staining,. the stain is dark colored,it makes my water look darker not crystal blue.it starts at the water line all around the pool then streaks down the sides. the place i purchased the pool came out and power washed the sides, that didn't help. I have scrubbed the pool, it still comes back. The stain reminds me of "bathtub ring".
Answer:
It sounds as though you may have an issue with a metal or other contaminant from your fresh water. This would be true if the stain only comes back after you have topped off the pool with fresh water. If after you have treated it, it is absent until the addition of fresh water, then you know that it is something in that. If so, I would add regular dosage of metal/stain remover and an extra dose any time you top off with fresh water.
I have a fiberglass inground pool. I keep having problems with some type of staining that starts at the waterline then goes down the sides of the pool. I have my water checked at my pool store and they have checked for all types of things. I have tried all stain removers but it keeps coming back. the only thing that removed it was a powder, but the staining still came back.i am dreading pool season as this is getting old. help.
Answer:
Knowing what color the stain is, what it looks like (spots, streaks, etc.) and where exactly it is starting and ending up (shallow end, deep end, close to inlet, far from inlet, etc.) would be helpful. Is it possible that it is starting in an area that is not getting circulated water (a dead spot) which is why it keeps coming back? If so, it may be as simple as adjusting the return jets. It may also be a biofilm that has not been properly scrubbed to break the membrane and expose it to the chemical treatments which would destroy it. For this reason, scrub first then add chemical treatment, then scrub again. There are other scenarios too, which is why the questions at the beginning are important.
My saltwater pool is cloudy but all the test strips say it's all good. why is it still cloudy?
Answer:
It could be a filtration issue. You may need to clean your filter media or replace the cartridge. Certainly maintenance may be necessary if there are any mechanical problems. It could also take some time to clear up - have you noticed any improvement? This could indicate that you are making progress, just slowly. Last, you could also add some clarifier which would aid in reducing the cloudiness.
took winter cover off had a dead opossum in it should i drain ool or will the algacide &cholrine be good enough?
Answer:
Algaecide and chlorine should be sufficient. However, maintain the chlorine level for a few days before using the pool to rid the water of unwanted bacteria and other contaminants.
We\'ve just opened our pool after winter and it is very gree. Shoul we drain any of the water before we put in more clean water or just start the filter and the cleaning up process?
Answer:
Removing some water may not reduce the level of contaminants enough to justify it. Top it off and begin the clean up process.
this is my first above ground pool and i was trying to figure out 2 things 1st thing is how do i put chlorine tablets in an above ground pool and the 2nd question is how many do i put in a 16x48 pool
Answer:
The easiest way to dispense the chlorine is through a "floater" that can adjust the flow through to allow the tablets to dissolve. Start with 5 to 6 1" tabs and open or close the floater to adjust how much chlorine is being dispensed.
I poured too much phosphate remover in my pool and now it's cloudy. How do I correct this?
Answer:
The best approach is to run the filter continuously until it clears up. Additional backwash may also be necessary.
I noticed white particles in the bottom of my pool.I have salt system and I think that could be salt, and if it is I need to know where is coming from.
Thank you.
Answer:
It is unlikely that the particulate is sodium chroride (salt) unless it has not yet dissolved. After it is dissolved it does not typically come out of solution. It is more likely that this is one of two things. 1) Algae - treat with an algaecide and vacuum the settled particulate to waste. 2) Calcium (hardness) - balance the pH and allow to equalize for at least one filter cycle. Then you may still need to add a clarifier to help clear the water. If the hardness is high, consider a partial drain and refill to lower the level.
I have a 6,000 gallon pool with a small water feature installed in 1995. It uses a Aqua Rite chlorine generator and here lately the only way I can get it to make chlorine is to put it in the super chlorinate mode. I uderstand the cells onlt last 3-4 years, so I might be on borrowed time. Before I shell out the 400 pluse for a new cell are there any tests that can be done. Below are the numbers from the pool store and the unit itself.
Free Chlorine .2ppm
Total Chlorine .2ppm
Combined Chloring .2ppm
pH 8.2
Hardness 230 ppm
Alkalinity 95ppm
Cyanuric Acid 50ppm
Salt 3,300
Pool Temp 76
Cell Voltage 26
Cell Current 6.08
Desired Output 80 percent
Instant Salinity 3,100
Product Name AL-0
Software 1.40
Many thanks for the help/advice
Answer:
Since the system is able to produce chlorine in the shock mode, that would suggest it is probably not the cell. However, it may be the sensor that tells the system when to produce chlorine. If this is not reading correctly, it may only produce chlorine in the shock mode since it not reading that it is necessary to produce chlorine otherwise.
My test strip shows green color for alkalinity is that high or low. Reading there is no indicator for that color.
Answer:
A green alkalinity color could indicate either an acceptable level or a high level. The color chart typically progresses from light yellow to a dark blue/green. Somewhere in the middle is green acceptable level.
How do I keep ducks out of a pool? Went to get in pool today and noticed some feces on the bottom....now I'm afraid to get in the pool. Is it safe? Had the in ground pool for 2 years and this year we have a mallard(s).
Answer:
Test to be sure the swimming pool is properly balanced. If so, it is likely safe to swim. As for the ducks in the pool, there are some things that you can do to keep them out - place a solar cover on the surface when not in use, try a large windsock somewhere around the pool or use inflatable or rubber decoys (snakes, owls, etc.) that would keep the ducks out. These may work well, but ducks sometimes realize they are fakes and come back. Also make sure your pool is clear - no leaves, sticks or other debris that makes the pool look more welcoming to ducks.
I have an above ground pool with a deck around it and we just opened the pool up.we are having a problem with the frogs hanging around on the side of the pool.how can i get them away from my pool (without harming my pool).
Answer:
There are frog repelents available that would work to keep frogs away. There may be precautions necessary for use around the swimming pool. Follow manufacturer's directions. Another trusted method is to spray a solution of vinegar onto the surface where you keep getting frogs. Frogs do not like the burning sensation this causes. However, the odor can obviously be mildly irritating. Last, make sure you do not leave lights on around or in the pool as this will attract insects which will also attract the frogs.
SHould a throw rope and ring buoy still be left out even when the season is over.. Im dealing with a HOA pool and unsure as to wether they should be taking down, if not they are being replaced every 2 years.
Answer:
Typically throw rope and ring bouy are not left out after the pool has ceased operation as long as it is properly covered, fenced, etc. If the pool is left uncovered, it may be a good idea to leave them out, however, not sure local regulations would require this for HOA swimming pools.
Question:
For safety reasons, I do not want to use a solar blanket or solar pool cover. What can I add to the pool to increase the heating efficiency of the solar pool heater?
Answer:
There are plenty of liquid chemicals that can be added as a type of liquid solar blanket. It is not known to be as efficient at keeping the heat, but it can help to supliment the solar pool heat.
Could you name the chemicals, please? Could you explain how they work?
Answer:
If you search for liquid solar blankets you are sure to find a number of brands. They all work bay the same basic method of providing a thin layer of non-hazardous chemical that floats on top of the water and provides protection from heat loss and prevents evaporation. The chemical degrades over time and either needs to be continually dosed or slowly doses through the floating dispenser.
For safety reasons, I do not want to use a solar blanket or solar pool cover. What can I add to the pool to increase the heating efficiency of the solar pool heater?
Answer:
There are plenty of liquid chemicals that can be added as a type of liquid solar blanket. It is not known to be as efficient at keeping the heat, but it can help to supliment the solar pool heat.
could you be sick by a popo duck in a swimming pool?
Answer:
Yes- if the pool is not properly sanitized. However, with proper maintenance, one duck should not cause a problem.
Last year towards end of August our above ground pool 48"x18' round pool developed these black spots all on the bottom,sidewalls and ladder.I do not have any idea where these black spots came from,but we could not get them out and ended up throwing the pool away.What could have cause these black spots and why towards end of season when we had no problems all summer?
Answer:
The black spots can be what is commonly referred to as black algae. There is no particular season when this occurs and there are chemical treatments developed to help clear up this problem.
we just changed to a salt water pool ..... our salt level is up and its a little high 3800 water is free of algae.... but we are cloudy..... ready to swim what to do now.....
Answer:
Test the free chlorine to make sure enough is present (at least 1 ppm) to keep the water safe. If the chemical balance is good, you may need some filter maintenance - backwash, filter cleaning, media replacement, etc. a clarifier may also be helpful to facilitate faster clearing.
I tried to find a similar question but there are so many! I was wondering if it was safe to enter my saltwater pool if the water is still cloudy after a week of no chemicals being put in the pool? A week ago I shocked the pool and before that used an algeacide, after I shocked it I used a clarifier, but its still cloudy.....again its been a week since I put anything in the pool, is it safe to swim in?
Answer:
Cloudy water does not necissarily indicate water that is unsafe to swim. Make sure that you have an appropriate free chlorine and pH level at multiple places in the pool by testing the water. If there is not proper filtration, you may have pockets of stagnant water that are not being treated, and this could also lead to the cloudy water.
I would like to know if liquid stabilizer is as effective as using the granular form?
Thanks
Answer:
Both forms are effective. The advantage to the liquid is that it dissolves quickly in water.
ok i need help. I just bought a house with a inground 25k gal. pool. I dont know anything about the keep up on one. It has not been used for 2 years and is very green. I need help. Where do I even start?
Answer:
The best thing that you can do is to learn about your swimming pool. There are many online resources and many local swimming pool retailers offer free or low cost "pool school" to help teach you about pool maintenance. First, a very green pool means algae. You will have to treat this, typically with chlorine and perhaps algaecide. I would suggest taking a water sample to a local retailer who will test the water for you and help you make a plan for opening your pool.
Are apartment complexes required by law to drain their swimming pool water every year?
Answer:
Regulations vary by state/county. Contact you local health department for regulations in your area.
If i have pool frog chemical system do i still need to add shock directly to pool?
Answer:
Yes, occassional shocking is important for these and other similar systems to make sure proper oxidation is occuring and to prevent build-up of combined chlorine causing odor and irritation and/or cloudy, dull water. Also since low levels of chlorine are being dispensed fromt he Frog system, this chlorine can be used up in a heavy demand situation (pool party, heavy rain, etc.). You might consider shocking after these events as well.
How do you remove duck poop stains from the bottom of a pool? The pool is a brand new blue quartz pool. I have not even taken a dip yet, but those ducks are having a field day. I came home one day and there it was. I and still brushing the pool daily, so the stains occured within an 8 hour time frame. Any advice?
Answer:
There are a few possibilities that would contribute to the staining from duck feces. Can you describe the stain (color, size, location, any other details may be helpful)? It would help to identify the exact cause of the stain.
My spa which overflows into the pool no longer filters debris out. I have been draining spa and sweeping up leaves. The spa has two drains and pool/spa are both about 15 years old. I do not remember doing this before. What should I do?
Answer:
What type of filter do you have? It may be time to replace the filter media (sand, fiber, etc). It could also require replacing the filter if there are cracks or leaks preventing proper filtration.
dog poop bag was found in skimmer of in ground salt water pool the contents was completely dissolved in the skimmer should i empty pool
Answer:
Emptying the pool is probably not necessary. You can treat this as a normal fecal contamination. Maintain a 15 to 20 ppm chlorine level for 1 or 2 days before using the pool.
considering not opening my pool 15x25 above ground this year. properly winterized fall 2011. winter heavy duty cover. What would I need to add or do to mantain. Water is always clear every year I open the pool,
Answer:
A closed pool is a body of stagnant water, and in the heat of the summer, it is a prime place for the growth of algae and bacteria. It can also be a nesting ground for common insects such as mosquitos. It is possible to keep the pool closed during summer months, but just know it will cost much more than usual next time to open. Unfortunately, treating the closed pool during summer months is not practical either because there is no circulation.
My pool operater keeps putting in 3 times the ammount of PH Level( directly from bottle) in to our pool, then has to add more chl. Will it affect swimmers teachers health ect.,?
Answer:
Any time a pool is continuously overdosed with a chemical it is likely to affect swimmers (and in this case - the pool equipment, surfaces, etc.). Most common symptoms would be skin and eye irritation. Is the pH constantly low or high? Test to see where the pH level is. If it is outside the appropriate range (7.2 to 7.8), you may decide to stay out.
Which will most likely happen if an excessive amount of chlorine is added to a swimming pool?
Answer:
For bathers - skin and eye irritation and perhaps bleaching of clothing items.
For pool - potential corrosive damage to equipment and pH shift depending on type of chlorine used.
Our pool maintenance man pours 2.5kg powder in to our 17,000 swimming pool measure.
on the bottle it says to put in bucket mix 900grm then add in to pool.
It then strip out all Chl level, he also pours it directly in to the pool with out measuring. He has been doing this over the last month. He has not been telling me (swim Teacher in private schl)I'm then entering straight after he has addedthis in to the pool for 8/9 hrs at a time. I have got burns in & around my mouth in my lungs eye nose ect., I have been coughing up blood have LRTI with Pleurisy, do u think the chemicals added to the pool has caused his?
Answer:
Have you tested the chlorine level to see just how high the level may be? Excessive chlorine levels (20 ppm +) can certainly lead to skin and eye irritation, and higher levels can cause the burns you are reporting, although not sure why they are specific to your mouth area. Do try to avoid having pool water in your mouth in general. Extremely high levels (generally not associated with swimming pools) have also been known to cause lung damage, which could play a factor in the other symptoms that you are experiencing. Test the water to see just how high the chlorine is since it appears to be overdosed regularly. You may need a high range chlorine test for this purpose as most pool and spa test kits max out at 10 to 20 ppm. Knowing the level, you should be able to research to find the common symptoms associated with that level of chlorine. Also, just to be clear, normal and recommended levels of chlorine would not cause the type of symptoms you are reporting.
Can duck poop from 2 ducks make a pool go green ?
Answer:
It is unlikely, however it may be the catalyst that starts the wheels in motion. If the pool is properly sanitized, 2 ducks should not cause a significant issue. However, when sanitizer levels are depleted, add ducks and you have the potential for the start of an algae outbreak. Once started, the pool can go green quickly.
clorine pool vs salt water pool which one is safer from germs and bacteria?
Answer:
Actually, a salt water pool IS a chlorine pool. You are essentially asking about the same thing. They are both chlorine pools and the way that the chlorine is introduced is what is different. Salt Pools us a generator to convert the sodium chloride in the pool into active chlorine. With regular chlorine pools, the chlorine is dosed directly. Regardless of how the chlorine gets there, they both provide the same protection vs. germs and bacteria when proper levels are maintained.
how to get rid of sud in a swimming pool
Answer:
Suds or foam can be caused by several factors so how to address it depends on what is causing it. High pH and or high total alkalinity can cause this. Test and enxure that the pH is below 7.8. High hardness (often in conjuction with high pH) can cause this, in which case a partial drain and refill with fresh water (with lower hardness) can help. Lastly, if the pool has not been drained in some time, high total dissolved solids (TDS) may be causing the foam. Again, this requires partial or full drain and refill with fresh water. Caution - make sure you know how much water you can drain out at a time in your pool in order to avoid damage to the pool (liner especially).
Pool pump doesnt work on pool, just bubbles, but doesnt turn on all the way. Jacuzzi works fine though.
Answer:
Check for cracks or leaks in plumbing around pump or on the pump itself. It also may be as simple as priming the pump to repressurize.
what is the maximum time a pool worker (trainer or physiotherapist) can remain in the water in on day
Answer:
Unfortunately, there are no specific guidlelines that I have found to address this issue. I would recommend common sense - that is if you start to feel uncomfortable in any way (skin, eyes, breathing, etc.) then it is time to get out.
is it safe for newborn babies to go in a chlorine pool
Answer:
There are varying opinions on this topic, but most experts agree that there are risks with exposing newborns to swimming pool water. It is typically recommended that babies have all initial immunizations completed, typically 4 to 5 months old. If you do plan to swim, make sure to test the water for proper chlorine and pH levels and bathe before and after swimming with a moisturizing wash to prevent babies skin from drying out.
can swimmers be in the pool when adding chlor neutralizer?
Answer:
It is recommended that swimmers be out of the pool for at least 4 hours after dosing with chlorine chemicals. Swimmers should not be in the water at any time during chemical treatment.
what is the name of colorados pool and sauna steam operator training courses.
Answer:
There are a couple of organizations that offer pool and spa (hot tub) operator training courses. The National Swimming Pool Foundation (NSPF) and the Aquatic Training Institute. Both offer training nationwide. NSPF is located in Colorado Springs. I am not aware of any training that combines pool and hot tub education with sauna operation.
Is it dangerous to add chlorine to a small pool (still) no filter connected, while children are swimming in the pool, I was present when this happened with the adult there stating that they mix the chlorine up with their movement (it seemed to to a christalized chlorine which he grabbed a handful and threw it in)this caused me concern, but as I have no experience with pools I would like to know if this is dangerous.
Answer:
This is certainly not recommended and can be dangerous, especially considering there is no measuring going on there. You can add chlorine to a small pool like this, but it should be pre-dissolved, thoroughly mixed and ideally in the 1 to 4 or 5 ppm range before kids get in the water. Excessive chlorine levels can cause skin irritation, perhaps burns and the off-gas may even cause breathing difficulties. This is why chlorine is never added (even in very large pools) when swimmers are present in the water.
My ph level is high so can i swim?
Answer:
It may or may not be safe, depending on just how high and the condition of the other parameters. If the pH is slightly high, you are probably ok as long as the chlorine is sufficient. However, you can expect skin and eye irritation to be more likely and your chlorine may not be as effective. This can lead to infection or illness if introduced to the water.
What would be the reason to see air bubbles from inlets, one reason I thought might be air being sucked thru the pump due to low skimming or no skimming action thru outlets. Is there another reason.
Answer:
I am not sure if this is a pool or hot tub but some issues would be common to both. First, you may be right about the air being sucked through the pump, but this is less likely since it is on the suction side. Are you also seeing excess air on the return side? You are more likely to see that on the return side. There are a couple of other possibilities. You may have a crack in one of the pipes, likely on the suction side of the system allowing air in. You may also have low pressure at the filter, meaning it may require cleaning or maintenance. Last idea, if you have a salt chlorine generator, you may be seeing a byproduct of the chlorine generation.
Is there any product I can put on my hair, other than water, or a cap, which will keep it nice and manageable without harming the pool or hot tub?
Answer:
Use shampoo and conditioner or conditioning shampoo before entering the swimming pool or hot tub. This will provide added moisture and prevent excessive loss of moisture due to chlorine or other chemicals. After swimming, use a clarifying shampoo which will strip damaging chemicals from the hair. For example, Triswim has a line of such products (shampoo, conditioner, body wash, etc.) designed to help serious swimmers overcome the effects of regular swimming. I am sure there are other similar brands as well, this is just one example. These products should also have little affect on properly maintained water in pools or hot tubs. You may have to clean the filter a little more regularly.
I have a very green pool.Its 16 x 32 approx 22k gallons. I have 2 big oaks in my backyard and leaves have been getting in the pool.When I get the leaves off the bottom of the pool, it is black and slimey.I have tried different things- balanced the ph to like 7.4, adding shock, etc. what can you suggest?
Answer:
When leaves decompose in the pool for some time this is going to happen. The best scenario is to remove the leaves as quickly as possible. Leaves and other organic matter will dissolve in the pool water and become food for algae which then leads to the green pool you are reporting. You may want to try a phosphate removal chemical in order to keep phosphate levels low (food for algae) which may prevent your pool from turning green. Just know as more leaves set in the pool for some time, the higher the phosphate level will be, requiring more phosphate remover. Unfortunately, you still have to remove the leaves to prevent the dark slimey deposit they leave after decomposing a while. You might want to invest in an automatic cleaner which can run while you are away and remove leaves and other debris before they leave a deposit.
What are the allowable min/max PPM ranges for acceptable chlorine levels in swimming pools and spas? Is there a documented requlation that states this?
Answer:
The US EPA and Association of Pool and Spa Professionals (APSP) recommend a level of 1 to 4 ppm for pools and 2 to 5 ppm for spas. Another organization the National Swimming Pool Foundation (NSPF) sites a 1 to 5 ppm acceptable range (2 to 4 ppm ideal) for pools and 2 to 10 ppm for spas (3 - 5 ppm ideal). The state/local health department will ultimately have authority over which range is appropriate for their region.
How do you lower cyanuric acid? Have a 2,000 gal swim spa. Right now kept at hot tub temp.
Answer:
The only way to lower the cyanuric acid level effectively is to drain some (or all) of the water out and add fresh water with no cyanuric acid.
I swim at a local YMCA where a lot of the users don't shower before entering. The pool is always cloudy; you can't see half the length of the pool usually, and sometimes only 1/3. They tell me the chemicals are at the right levels, so the question is can a pool be 'clean' (safe to swim in) if it's this cloudy?
Bill Fitzhugh
bfitzhugh@socal.rr.com
Answer:
Cloudy water does indicate that there is some issue with water balance or the filtration is not sufficient. Either is a problem, but not necissarily unsafe to swim. The cloudy water can be caused by a number of factors. Some common factors - the hardness may be too high, the total dissolved solids may be too high or the pH can be outside the ideal range. The first two can only be addressed by draining and refilling with fresh water (partial drain may be acceptable) to lower the levels. The pH can be adjusted more easily. Low or high pH can also cause swimmer discomfort and make the chlorine less effective. Test the chlorine and pH before you swim to make sure it is acceptable and safe.
why is showering before entering the pool an important rule?
Answer:
Showering before entering the pool is important for two reasons. 1) It creates less demand for the chemicals in the water. The chlorine does not get used up as quickly and the balancing chemicals are not affected as much. One swimmer has a small impact on the water, but many swimmers can add a lot of waste if showering is not standard practice. 2) Harmful bacteria, virus and protazoa can be present on your body if you do not shower. Even properly sanitized water may not be able to destroy these contaminants in time to prevent infecting another person.
what is the right clorine level of a swiiming pool? if the test shows 9 should i close the pool ?
Answer:
The ideal level of free chlorine in the swimming pool is 2 to 4 ppm. 1 to 5 ppm is acceptable and 9 ppm is on the high side. 9 ppm would likely be safe to swim, but could be more of an irritant. Ideally, the level would be alllowed to come down to 5 ppm before swimmers are allowed to swim.
There is a frog that got sucked into my filter system. How can I make sure it gets sucked out before I clean it?
Answer:
Run the filter constantly for 48 to 72 hours and then clean the filter.
how much salt is needed in a pool of 120mc of water
Answer:
Assuming you are asking about a pool with a salt chlorine generating system, the recommended amount of salt varies according to generator manufacturer. Typically, around 3,000 ppm (mg/L) is ideal. You should be able to follow the dosage instructions on the salt packaging to get to adjust to the recommended level.
my apartment complex had a inspector come out and the inspector closed the pool till they drain it half way and refill it because of the acid level being to high but they are letting people swim in it with the health department close sign on it can they get a fine for that because they have not fixed it yet?
Answer:
Absolutely, the pool operators could be subject to further penalties, including fines, if they continue to knowingly let people swim in the pool when it should be closed. The facility is responsible should anyone get sick or harmed from using the pool in this condition. The sign may not be enough of a deterent to keep people from swimming in the pool. Contact your health department to make them aware of the situation if you have not already done so.
How do I keep skunks and moles from drowning in my pool? I also have frogs and salamanders that like to swim. Water is balanced and clean.
Answer:
A trick for keeping small animals out of the pool area is to spray predator urine around the perimeter of the pool area, concentrating on where you suspect they are coming from. A little bit goes a long way with this stuff. You can find predator urine (such as fox or coyote urine) wherever hunting supplies are sold.
For frogs and salamanders, make sure you keep the lights off in and around the pool at night as this attracts bugs and the bugs attract the frogs and salamanders.
Pollen is sticking to the outside of my hot tub filter input (where the water gets sucked into the system to be cleaned/circulated). I scrape it off and it immediately reattaches. Is there a way to get rid of it without draining the hot tub or buying a pool vacuum?
Answer:
Keep the hot tub covered when not in use to limit the amount of pollen if possible. Also check that the water level is sufficient to get good suction going through the skimmer as you may have a certain spot that is collecting the pollen where there is no circulation. The filter should be able to take care of most if not all of the pollen, but may require more frequent backwash. Another idea is to add a clarifier that will clump the pollen so that it can be removed manually or by vaccuum. Last, there are devices you can place in your skimmer that also help to collect the pollen so that less of it ends up on the surface of the hot tub.
I have a new, larger above ground pool this year and it is always being overrun with algae... i use 2-3 bags of shock ever 3 or 4 days, but it doesn't seem to help much. Any ideas?
Answer:
The key to understanding why this is happening is to understand what is causing the algae. Are you running out of chlorine so that the algae can grow (chlorine tests 0 or very low)? Is there something being introduced to the water regularly that is helping algae to form (leaves, animals, fertilizer overspray, etc.)? Once you understand this, you can treat accordingly. Using a regular algaecide treatment in addition to the chlorine can be very helpful as well.
how long i have to wait to let my kids go in to the water after the water treatment???
and how much chlorine size taps and shock plus do i have to put in my pool tha is size 12 by 30
Answer:
How long to wait after a treatment depends on the chemicals you are adding. Typically, you will want to wait for the water to turn over one full time (all the water to pass through the filter), which typically takes 8 to 12 hours. A pool shock is a different story, you should wait for the level to come down to a safe, swimable level below 5.0 ppm.
Also, the tabs and shock required for your pool are dependent on the type of chlorine and shock. There are several different types of chlorine, so always follow the manufacturer's recommendation for dosage instructions.
my pool smells like clorine to much
Answer:
If your pool smells of chlorine, it is likely that you are smelling the combined form of chlorine called chloramines. That odor indicates the need to shock your pool in order to eliminate the combined chlorine. Adding more free chlorine or non-chlorine shock is the way to do this. Free available (good) chlorine smells fresh and even when high does not smell like sweaty socks or a gym locker room. Smell some fresh bleach with a very high chlorine level to be convinced.
How should we lower the combined chlorine without super-chlorination?
Answer:
This can be done by non-chlorine shock. The most popular option is a chemical called monopersulfate. It does the job of oxidizing the combined chlorine while not adding additional chlorine to the water.
does the health dept test for crypto in a private pool. if not who does?
Answer:
Depending on where you are located, there should be labs that will test for crypto in a private pool. Find out which labs test ground water for contamination and they would also likely test for crypto. Another good option could be colleges and universities. Many of these places have labs and will run the tests inexpensively. The health department may get the testing done for you, but chances are they are sub-contracting with one of these labs anyway.
green slim in skimmer
Answer:
The green slime is probably suspended or floating algae that has collected in the skimmer. This would mean that the algae likely started somewhere else in the pool and made its way to the skimmer. Check for sufficient chlorine levels as well as proper circulation to make sure there are not areas of stagnant water due to the direction of the return jets. Once the water is properly balanced, you may need to add an algaecide dosage to help the chlorine prevent future algae growth.
how can i measure the ph level of my pool on a daily basis
Answer:
There are several ways to be able to measure pH in your swimming pool on a daily basis. There are liquid kits, tablet kits, electronic meters and test strips. I would recommend the strips as they are easy to use and low cost if measuring that frequently. Also, you should only need to test the pool daily if it is getting used heavily or the conditions are extreme - heat, rain, dust, fertilizer overspray, etc. Testing 3 times a week should be sufficient under normal conditions (unless you are a public facility and more regular testing is required by regulation).
I tested the pool at my hotel. At 15 secs the readings were 0.5 and 7.8. In about a minute or more, they changed to 1 and 8.4. Is 15 seconds the only time you trust the reading. From these numbers, they got better as the water stayed on the strip longer. What is the valid answer? Thanks.
Answer:
The test strips are designed to be read at around 15 to as much as 45 seconds. Once the time goes beyond that, the colors start to dry and typically darken. It is best to read them bewteen 15 and 45 seconds. Also at free chlorine of 0.5 and pH 7.8, these would be reasonably good conditions, although the chlorine should be slightly higher at around 1 ppm.
our ph level in our pool is high what can i do to bring it down and chlorine level is low
Answer:
pH can be reduced by adding either liquid acid (muriatic acid) or dry acid (sodium bisulfate). The second is often the more popular choice because it is more safe to handle and store. Chlorine level would also need to be adjusted up with whichever chlorine chemical you are using (granular, liquid, tablets, etc.).
I still have strips from my test kit, but I misplaced the scale chart to read the results. Is there a web page that I can download or compare my strip readings? Thanks.
Answer:
Unfortunately, the color requirements for these comparison scales have to be very precise and everyone's computer would show and print these colors differently. Therefore, there is not a site to download the chart. However, you can go to AquaChek.com and request a replacement chart using the "contact us" form. Mention the healthypools.org sample in the message.
I've heard about salt chlorination. Is it better than chlorine?
Answer:
It is actually the same as chlorine, it is just introducing the chlorine in a different way. In a salt generator system, salt is added to the pool water and a cell installed that can convert this salt into free chlorine. It can be a very effective system and can cut down on maintenance due to the fact that it is constantly producing chlorine. However, it should be treated the same as any other chlorine system with regular testing and adjustment of balancing chemicals like pH and total alkalinity as well as the occasional shock treatment. One word of caution about these systems - the cell used to convert salt to chlorine will need to be replaced every 3 - 5 years and can be very costly. Before you purchase a salt system check to see what the replacement cell will cost you and factor that into your decision.
How can I get my Free Chlorine and pH lower? Water is very cloudy to.
Answer:
Free chlrorine will lower on its own with due time. It is best to allow the level to come down to around 5 ppm before reentering the pool. If you cannot wait, there is a chemical that helps to reduce chlorine levels called sodium thiosulfate. However, this chemical can present other problems such as causing pH shift. pH can be lowered using acid, typically a dry acid called sodium bisulfate because it is safer to handle. The pH being out of range is likely responsible for the cloudy water as well.
Is it safe to swim in a pool that had duck poop in it?
Answer:
Probably, as long as the chlorine level was maintained properly during the exposure and proper time was allowed to disinfect the water. A chlorine level on the high side of the ideal range (around 5 ppm) for a day or so would be ideal. Also, any droppings that dry around the pool edge should be cleaned and disinfected as well to prevent the spread of disease/illness.
had my water tested ph reads 7.8 they advise 1pt 14oz of muriatic acid. I think 7.8 ph is good pool is 19,000. Last week I put in 7lbs calcium chloride in i'm still have some spots of scaling & think I should do a second treatment. Your comments please!! Thank you
Answer:
Typically, 7.8 would be an acceptable pH level that would not require any action. However, because you are seeing scaling, maintaining a lower pH in the middle to low end of the acceptable range (7.2 - 7.5) would be advised. High pH can contribute to the scaling problem.
I HAVE AN ABOVE GROUND POOL THAT USES TYPE A FILTER CARTRIDGES. I NOTICE THAT THERE IS A PLACE INSIDE OF THE FILTER WHERE IT SAYS THAT YOU CAN PUT IN 1"CHLORINE TABS. MY QUESTION IS HOW MANY AND HOW LONG DO YOU RUN THE PUMP EACH DAY.
Answer:
The number of tablets required depends on the size of the pool and the typical usage, among other things. Often times this is an adjustment you have to determine with experience because no two pools are exactly the same from a water chemistry standpoint. However, start with the chemical manufacturer's recommendation, usually on the container of 1" tabs. Also, the pool filter should not be required to run any longer than normal. You need to run it long enought to turn over your water at least once per day, usually around 8 to 12 hours a day.
I go to hamilton rec and there water is blury and sting my eyes should I stop swimming there?
Answer:
Pool water that is cloudy and irritating indicates that the water is not properly balanced. It may or may not be safe to swim there. It could be as simple as an unbalanced pH, which would potentially cause both of the problems you are reporting. However, it could also indicate a lack of free chlorine or too much combined chlorine. Either scenario would present a bigger problem and could mean the water is unsafe to swim. You should at least test the pH and free chlorine levels to make sure you are not exposing yourself to potential illness.
Our community pool was very cloudy on Monday afternoon, on Tuesday they had swim team practice and then closed the pool for the remainder of the day. On Friday, at least 3 children from the team were diagnosed with swimmers ear. Could there have been something in the water that caused this? Is there anything I can do as a concerned parent to prevent this in the future?
Answer:
The outbreak of swimmer's ear may have resulted from unbalanced water in the swimming pool. Of primary concern is the sanitizer level. When there is not a sufficient level of chlorine to protect swimmers from bacteria in the swimming pool, swimmer's ear can occur. The water stays in the ear canal of the swimmers for some time exposing a sensitive area to germs and bacteria that would usually be non-existent in a properly treated swimming pool. Knowing that, there are some steps that you can take to protect your swimmers. Find these recommendations and other information on swimmer's ear at:
http://www.cdc.gov/healthywater/swimming/rwi/illnesses/swimmers-ear.html
what do I use to boost free chlorine
Answer:
To boost free chlorine, use some kind of chlorine "shock" that will raise the level and provide additional sanitization and oxidation. Quick dissolving chlorine compounds are ideal for a boost such as calcium hypochlorite, lithium hypochlorite or sodium hypochlorite (liquid chlorine). There are many kinds of chlorine shock and which form to use is up to you. There are advantages to each of the chlorine compounds such as price, speed at which it dissolves, affect on pH, etc.
There was a mouse in our pool & instead of draining the water and sanitizing it my apartment complex just added a bunch of chlorine to it. Is that safe on the skin? Is that getting rid of the bacteria?
Answer:
High levels of chlorine can be irritating to skin and also eyes. Each individual is unique in how they react to elevated levels of chlorine so it is hard to tell if you would have any reaction and it is depedent on the level. However, rasing the chlorine level is the safe way to make sure that the bacteria introduced is destroyed and swimmers are safe from illness. After the chlorine has been added it is advised that you wait until the chlorine level in the water comes down to around 5 ppm. Use pool test strips to test the chlorine level (and pH) to make sure the water is safe to swim.
My daughter is getting a burning feel in her private are after swimming in a public pool (has happened two different times) and I am hearing that other girls and women are getting the same thing as well as blader infections. The public pool owner said there is nothing wrong, what can I do?
Answer:
This question is under investigation.
My eyes were burning like crazy on 2/5 days, during after swimming laps for approx. 2 hours/day, last week, in a public pool. What tests are required for Nassau COunty Long Island, NY and what are the acceptable ranges? What tests are not required but are desirable to perform?
Answer:
New York state code requires testing of free and total chlorine (or bromine) and pH on a daily basis. They also specify that hardness and total alkalinity should be tested as needed. These are the key parameters to monitor and it is likely that the discomfort you are experiencing is due to inadequate levels of chlorine or pH. Ideally the chlorine should be kept between 1 and 5 ppm and pH between 7.2 and 7.8.
what is the easiest way to test your pool is safe to use
Answer:
Test strips are likely the most easy to use and give reliable results. Many of the test strip products do not even require material safety data sheets (MSDS) indicating that they are not at all hazardous.
What causes a high phosphate level in the pool? Our kit does not measure this but a pool store said this was important to check. (They found our level was 300 and we needed to lower it)
Answer:
Phosphates can be introduced to your swimming pool from a number of different sources. Leaves, pollen, grass, etc. all contain some level of phosphates and can leach those phosphates into your pool if they are allowed to stay in there for some period of time. One way your grass gets its phosphates, from fertilizer, can be a source for your pool's phosphates. Overspray is common from grass treatments, perhaps even from neighbors or the golf course nearby. Animals also contribute a higher level of phosphates - ducks, geese or even the family dog. You and your family can contribute phosphates from the detergents in your clothes or other contaminants you introduce to the water. Last but not least, there are even certain pool chemicals that contain phosphates. Given all the sources, 300 parts per billion is only slightly higher than recommended.
I have 1 20,000 gal with a 1 hp motor how long should it take to turn the water & what should the pressure be?
Answer:
Both questions of how long the water should take to turn over as well as what the pressure should be depends on the type of filter you have. In general, the water should take between 8 and 12 hours to turn over. Concerning pressure, it is hard to tell you exactly what the pressure should be. However, the lower the better. Once your pressure rises about 10 psi above the starting pressure, it is time to backwash or replace the media.
my finger nails have become soft and peeling from the pool where I swim 3-5 days aweek ?
Answer:
Frequent wetting of the nails alone can be cause for weaker and peeling nails. I am unaware of any water conditions that would further contribute to the condition you are describing. However, be sure the chemicals, including chlorine and particularly pH is balanced for best swimmer comfort.
My chlorine level is very high and the ph level is just about right,what should I do
Answer:
Your chlorine will come down naturally if you are in a position to be able to wait for it. Depending on how high it is and how anxious you are to use the pool, you may consider adding a chlorine neutralizer to bring the chlorine level down. This may also have an affect on the pH.
Where would I get a stain ID kit? I've never heard of one.
Answer:
You can find them online if you search for a swimming pool "stain identification kit" or check with your local pool and spa professional (pool service companies use these often as well).
Pool company keeps our pool at about 60 - 80 ppm TA and pH at 7.8 - 8.0+. How does this impact chlorine consumption versus a TA at 80 - 120 and the pH at say 7.4? Also, how effective is the chlorine with the pH at 8.0?
Thank you!
Answer:
The pH is the more important factor in the chlorine chemistry. Chlorine is most effective at the low end of the ideal pH range of 7.2 to 7.4. However, it is still very effective and likely to be more comfortable for swimmers around the 7.8 level. At 8.0 it is starting to get a little too high as the upper end of the recommended level is 7.8. Either way the actual chlorine consumption should be very similar.
Help my water is brown and so is everything that is made of plastic (steps, ladder, skimmer etc) in the pool. We had a major over chlorination issue in June when our auto chlorinator dumped all of the dissolved tablets (about 8) into the pool all at one time. Our pool store could not tell us what to do until the level of chlorine came back down to normal. Every level is now normal but the water still has a slight brown tinge (it may be on the vinyl liner) and scrubbing the steps has helped but we are unable to remove all of the brown. Any ideas what we can do to get rid of this problem?
Answer:
The brown discoloration could be from metals that were oxidized when your chlorine got so high. You might try some metal removing agent/stain remover. You could try this on a small area to see if it is effective. There is also a product available that will allow you to test the stain to see what kind of stain it is. This is referred to as a stain ID kit. It might be helpful to determine what product would be best for treatment of your brownish color water or liner.
Hi,
How often am supposed to resurface the pool walls?
And my second question is How good the automatic vacuums are, can you recomend a specific one?
Thanks for your help
Answer:
How often the pool needs resurfacing is really a function of how well your chemicals are maintained throughout the swim season. Aggressive water will deteriorate the surface more quickly. When the surface gets rough and uncomfortable to touch or if certain algaes become a recurring problem in the same areas, then it is time to resurface. The duration also depends on the type of surface . . . plaster, painted plaster, gunite, marbelite, etc.
Automatic pool vacuums are also very effecient and do cut down on maintenance necessary to keep the pool clean. Some are better than others and often the price is reflective of this. I cannot recommend a specific brand but I would encourage you to do a little research to see if there are particular cleaners that get high ratings from other consumers, test panels, etc.
Our pool is cloudy even after shocking it. All our other levels checkout fine. What can we do to get rid of the cloudyness?
Answer:
It might be time to partially drain the pool (lower the level) and add fresh water, especially if this has not been done for several seasons. Another idea is to add a clarifier chemical to see if that is helpful. Clarifiers assist your chlorine to clear up some causes of cloudy water. Also, make sure your pH is in the ideal range of 7.2 to 7.8. This is very important to the clarity of the water.
Should there be so much hair in the pool the swimmers are bother with it getting in mouth and under goggles? They are on team and swim early morning and evening too. They complain a lot about this.
Answer:
First, not sure where the hair is coming from in order to tell you for sure. However, the filtration system should be able to pick up and clear out these lightweight contaminants, but it will take some time (several hours) for the entire body of water to make it through the filter. Maybe the hair is coming from the group using the water before the swim team?
My pool is cloudy, Why?
Answer:
Could be a number of different reasons. Here are a few of the most typical. If the pH is not in the acceptable range of 7.2 to 7.8, you can expect cloudy water. Also, High calcium hardness levels or high total dissolved solids can cause cloudy water. This may be due to keeping your pool water for several seasons without partially draining and refilling with fresh water. And a lack of sufficient free chlorine can also be cause for cloudy water.
Hello, I have a 34 ft round pool that has a water depth of 48" (4 feet) I am running a starrite sand filter and a 1.5 hp pump. My chemical levels are as follows: Free Chlorine 8.67, Total Chlorine 9.24,combined chlorine .57,Total alkalinity 101, ph 7.1, calcium hardness 255, cyanuric acid 12, total dissolved solids 180. I have a layer of green dust on the bottom of the pool and it is cloudy. What do I need to do to get back to sparkling clean again? I have been fighting this for 2 weeks now. Thank you for your help!
Answer:
First, since you have a significant level of combined chlorine (anything above 0.2 is significant), but you have a fairly high free chlorine level, I would recommend adding some non-chlorine shock to help oxidize the combined chlorine while not affecting the already high free chlorine level. Can you vaccuum off the dust on the bottom of the pool? If not, brush and then vaccuum to try to get rid of as much as possible. Backwash the filter once you have vaccuumed up the dust. Very few pool chemicals work instantly, so it will take some time for your actions to take affect. However, if the water is still cloudy after a couple of days you may consider adding a clarifier or phosphate remover, especially if the phosphate level is significantly high (you probably need to have this tested at a pool store).
I tested the water the other day, Chlorine was good but it says to add soda ash, this is the first time it ever said to do this. What is Soda Ash? Or can I add PH to clear that up?
Answer:
Soda ash is the active ingredient in most pH increaser chemicals. Soda ash is another name for sodium carbonate, likely to be the name listed on the chemical packaging. Either way, it is the most effective way to raise your ph when it is low.
how do you get rid of black algae at the bottom of the pool
Answer:
Black algae is typically the most difficult algae to treat. Fisrt, you have to be able to break up the outer coating on the black algae in order for the chemical treatments will work. This can be done by brushing with a stiff brush. Then there are chemicals specifically formulated to treat black algae that will work with your chlorine to treat the algae. After treatment it may be necessary to brush the bottom again to dislodge any stubborn algae. You can also improve treatment of stubborn spots by applying the algaecide directly to the affected sopts - put it on your brush before brushing.
ph level
Answer:
pH - This is the most critical water balance parameter. The lower the pH, the more acidic and aggressive the water. Higher pH means alkaline or basic water and can be scale forming. Balancing the pH prevents corrosion and scale build-up on equipment. It also helps your other chemicals work properly to keep the water clean and clear and protects the swimmers' skin and eyes from irritation. Un balanced pH is a very common cause of cloudy water.
Does pool water need to be completely drained and refilled every 10-15 years?
Answer:
Not necessarily. Many people never completely drain and refill their pool because they are lowering the level significantly every winter and then refilling with fresh water in the spring. This dilutes the level of total dissolved solids (TDS), cyanuric acid and other chemicals that would otherwise require the pool to be drained and refilled. You can also make several partial drains over the course of a couple of years that would help to do the same thing as a complete drain. If you do not close the pool and/or make regular partial drain and refills, you may want to consider a complete drain in order to lower the levels mentioned above. Old water that is not diluted with fresh water can cause problems keeping the water balanced, make the water look dull and dirty and can potentially cause damage in the form of build up and scale.
Note: pools with a vinyl liner that require complete drain and refill should probably be handled by a professional. Vinyl liners are kept in position by the water and when there is none, the liner can shift or shrink and then tear or wrinkle when the water is added back in.
I have an above ground pool and i have only used chlorine tablets from wallmart, that i put in it, it has a pool pump, with a filter, but is there any other products i could buy that would help it to be clear, form rain and weather. i love swimming with my children , but i want it to be safe for my children and my dog who also loves to swim in it with all of us, any suggestions would be helpful please.
my email is shosh32034@yahoo.com thanks for my free pool kit,
shonda lee
Answer:
Chlorine is certainly important, but sometimes tablets are not enough. Regular shock dosage can help to keep the water clear. Also, pH is very important in water clarity as well as for swimmer comfort and equipment protection. You may require a pH increaser or decreaser to balance this out. If the regular chemistry looks good (free chlorine, pH and Total Alkalinity) then a clarifier might help to improve the clarity of the water as well. There are several available, but you might have to visit a pool store to find one.
I use chlorine and related chemicals in my pool and the pool is beautiful. My neighbor uses a product called Backuisil(sp). His pool looks very good as well. What is the difference between the two treatments?
Answer:
Baquacil is a non-chlorine product for sanitization. The Baquacil system (baquicil is one brand of several) and others like it use a three chemical treatment process to replace chlorine. 1. Biguanide for regular sanitization. 2. Hydrogen Peroxide shock for oxidation. 3. An algaecide to prevent algae growth. This system takes the place of and is completely not compatible with chlorine. This is a good option for those with allergy or are hypersensitive to chlorine.
I swimm in a HOA operated pool within our community. At times the pool has been closed for 24 hrs due to fecal matter. However, recently we were told that the pool was contaminated but did not require closing because the fecal matter was removed immediately and then "shocked" immediately after notification. Should this have resulted in a 24 hr closure? Should duck feces result in pool closure? In one of your FAQs psuedomonas was briefly mentioned. In the past I had a resistant psuedomonas infection - do I need to be more cautious when swimming, if so how? Does choline used in pools have any impact if you have thyroid disease, if so what and what precautions should you use. Thank you for your responses.
Answer:
While it is typical for pools to be closed and treated for 24 hours for any fecal contamination, solid fecal contamination that is rapidly removed does pose much less risk than a loose fecal contamination. However, it is still safest to follow typical 24 hour treatment protocol for this type of contamination as well.
Concerning duck feces, I have not seen any evidence that the pool should be treated the same way as human feces, especially considering that ducks and people are not likely to be in the pool at the same time.
Concerening your other questions about resistant psuedomonas and thyroid, these are questions better left for your doctor. However, to be sure you are swimming in safe, clean water always test the free chlorine and pH level before swimming. This will help to ensure that you are not exposed to unhealthy conditions.
I live in an apartment with 2 pools. The pools have taken a downhill slide for the past 2 summers. I grew up with an in-ground pool. We vaccuumed it daily and shocked it once a week and every time it rained if the balance was off. I would assume that public pools need MORE care in order for residents to be safe. To what public agency can I report this, if it continues?
Answer:
You are right that a public pool like this requires more maintenance due to the number of swimmers and probably the size. If problems persist contact your local health department. They will likely send an inspector to take a look and see if there are problems with pool maintenance.
What is the best way to get rid of metal rust stains on the bottom of the pool from metal brisles that came off of a brush I was using to clean the edge of the pool? I didn't notice them until they rusted and then I immediately vacuumed them up.
Answer:
These type of stains can be removed using an ascorbic acid based product or phosphonic acid based product. The issue might be getting the chemical to stay in place long enough to affect the stain. Applying to the brush and brushing directly on the stain may work for fresh stains. For mild stains certain treatment chemicals are provided in a type of mesh bag that can be placed directly on the stain in order to treat it without being totally diluted by pool water. The treatment can also vary depending on the surface of your pool so make sure you choose a treatment that will not damage or bleach your pool surface.
BROWNISH YELLOW STUFF GROWING ON BOTTOM OF POOL. IT IS NOT SLICK, JUST UGLY.
Answer:
This can be one of two things. It may be a type of algae, probably an algae referred to as mustard algae. This can be treated easily with chlorine and algaecide. It may require some vaccuuming and brushing to get rid of completely, which you will want to do or it will come back. The other thing it could be is metal. Iron can appear a brownish color when it comes out of solution in the pool. It can be treated with metal removal agents and some may also need to be vaccumed to be removed.
can you use bleach in a pool?
Answer:
Yes, technically bleach can be used. However, the concentration of chlorine is much lower than other forms of chlorine including the liquid chlorine that you can purchase specifically for pool use. Therefore, using bleach might be advised in a pinch, but you will not save any money because the concentration is so much lower that you get much less out of the bleach than you would other forms of chlorine. There may also be other byproducts (scents, lotions, etc.) that you do not want in your pool if you can help it.
Exactly which chlorine type does the OTO (yellow) test measure? How about your strips? Should I switch to the DPD tests?
Answer:
OTO measures only total chlorine and therefore you will not know how much is free and how much has already been used up. Our test strips us the FACTS method (syringaldazine) that is specific to free chlorine and will not react to the combined chlorine present so that you can determine how much is available to sanitize/oxidize. DPD is the same way and could also be used to determine free chlorine. Which of these methods you prefer is up to you, but you should definitely switch to a method that will tell you how much is free available chlorine.
Can you make a case for potassium monopersulfate over the calcium hypoclorite shock my pool store strongly recommends? How often should I shock my lightly used pool (gunite with tri-chlor tablets)?
Answer:
Monopersulfate has two advantages. First, it is not chlorine. If you have a sufficient level of chlorine but feel a shock treatment is in order (i.e. you have combined chlorine that is not going away) you can use monopersulfate without increasing the chlorine level. If water has some chlorine odor, but chlorine shows acceptable, consider a non-chlorine shock. The second reason monopersulfate is often used is that you can swim as soon as 90 minutes after adding a shock dosage. Therefore, you do not have to wait for the chlorine to drop in order to get back in the water.
What do I have to do if I left the floater too long and now the chlorine is high?
Thank you
Answer:
You probably will just wait for the chlorine to come down to an acceptable re-entry point. The time it takes will depend on the level that you have present. If you are in a real hurry, you can use chlorine neutralizer (sodium thiosulfate) to reduce the chlorine, but this may present its own problems. Best to wait it out if you can.
There is a black fungus type substance growing on our HOA pool. What could this be? is it safe? (currently awaiting test kit)Thanks!
Answer:
It is probably an algae known as black algae. It can be hard to treat as several of the questions/responses on this forum indicate. The water may or may not be safe. Obviously algae is surviving in the water, so what else might also be surviving there? I would at least recommend testing chlorine levels to be sure there is some free chlorine present in the water. Black algae can be very stubborn, so the chlorine alone may not kill it. However, just because chlorine is present does not mean there are no other microorganisms that can cause illnesses to swimmers. Bottom line is if there is free chlorine present, the risk getting sick while swimming is much lower, but there is still some risk from other chlorine resistant microorganisms.
We have a 9 month old fiberglass pool. The pool test shows acceptable levels across the board. We have noticed a bumpy, build up on sides. You can scrape it off with a fingernail, very small and hard. Local pool people can't identify. Any advice?
Answer:
This could be due to calcium deposits. High levels of calcium can deposit on the walls, especially after extended periods of high pH. You should be able to control this with regular pH monitoring to make sure the pH stays balanced and calcium stays in solution. However, in some rare cases calcium hardness is very high in the source water and alternate water needs to be used or a prefilter treatment of the water done.
How do I get rid of black algie? The stuff keeps coming back and we have treated and treated the pool.
Thanks for a reply.
Answer:
Black algae can be very stubborn. The most important thing is to do is make sure it is completely gone. Scrub the affected area to get to the core of the algae and allow the chlorine/algaecide to penetrate. You may also want to adjust the circulation to direct more flow to the most common affected areas. Also make sure the algae is not starting in a dead zone where no water is being circulated.
I HAVE A 15 FT BY 41 INCH ABOVE GROND POOL WITH APPROX. 4400 GAL. OF WATER. IF THERE IS NO CHLORINE LEVEL, HOW MANY 1 IN. TABLETS DO I PUT IN MY FILTER AND HOW LONG SHOULD IT TAKE TO DISSOLVE?
Answer:
You probably only need two or three tablets in the floater at a time. You control the flow, thus the rate at which the tablets dissolve by adjusting the opening on floater. When levels are low allow more flow for the tablets to dissolve faster. However, when the level is 0 you may want to shock with a more rapid dissolving chlorine in order to quickly establish an acceptable level.
Like Jim (below) we operate a HOA pool with lots of kids. We require "Swim Diapers" for all who wear diapers. Sometimes there is a thought that there might have been an accident but there is no physical evidence. Some commercial companies advertise that they offer WATER SAFE BACTERIA TEST KITS that will show if there are bacteria or psuedomonas present in the pool water that would be harmful. Is this an acceptable way to know if we do/don't have to go through the pool shutdown and sanitazation when there is no other evidence of contamination, just a suspecion?
Thanks for your reply,
Bob
Answer:
Although the rapid bacteria test may be helpful, most bacteria can be destroyed by chlorine very quickly. What a rapid bacteria test will not indicate is the presence of other potential contaminants like viruses and Protozoa that can be chlorine resistant. One such animal of great concern is cryptosporidium. It will not show up on the bacteria test but may still be present and can cause serious illness. So while a positive bacteria test might indicate such a contamination, a negative test does not necessarily mean it didn't happen.
Why is pH level important?
Answer:
For swimmer comfort, for protection of costly equipment, to allow other chemicals like chlorine to work properly and to keep the water clear and bright.
all tests are coming up ok - however, grandkids get "itchy". what needs to be changed? eherzog@ec.rr.com
Answer:
It could be several things that cause irritation and it may take a little trial and error to figure out. First, you may have the grandkids shower and wash before entering the pool. There may be some reaction taking place between lotions, perfumes, etc. On their skin and pool water. The pH could be fluctuating and the right pH is key to swimmer comfort. One other idea would be to shock with non-chlorine shock a couple hours before they swim. This will help to oxidize waste without impacting the chlorine level that is already ideal. It is safe to swim about 90 minutes after adding non-chlorine shock (potassium monopersulfate).
I swim at the local sports club. walking into the pool area, chlorine smell is overwhelming, I attribute it to "more is better than less"...yes?
My eyes get blood red, even though I do not open under water or reven put my head under.
Also, tried the Zacuzzi just once. It is set for 100 degrees and just getting near it, I could not catch my breathe or keep my eyes open.
Your thoughts please.
Thank you
D.Schink
Answer:
If you can smell the strong chlorine odor there is not enough good free chlorine. Like bleach that has a VERY high free chlorine level compared to pool water yet smells fresh and clean. What you are smelling is chlorine that has been used up called combined chlorine or chloramines. This is responsible for the odor AND irritation and the only way to get rid of it is to add more free chlorine. There could also be a ventilation issue allowing the oxidized chloramines to linger causing some irritation. The hot tub sounds like a serious chloramines issue as well. Test the water yourself for at least free chlorine and pH and make the operator aware when you see levels outside the ideal range.
Does the test strip package come with instructions?
Answer:
Yes - let us know if you have any questions.
I am having problems getting my water crystal clean...I am on well water, which is filtered and softened. The above ground pool (18ft in diameter) is brand new, it came with a cartiridge filter, I just replaced it with a sand filter, PH is fine, so is the clorine level, have only ran the sand filter for two days....am I expecting too much too soon? Last night I added a pool clarifier, about two onces, to the pool, it still has a cloudy look to it. IT has also been treated for metals and was shocked this week......I am at a lose as to what to do next? Help?
Answer:
I don't blame you for being frustrated. Sounds like you are doing all the right things to get it cleared up. Give it a few more days with the right chemistry and improved filtration. If that does not do it consider getting your TDS (total dissolved solids) and hardness levels looked at as either can lend to cloudy water.
when i test my pool with a test strip the alkalinity shows a dark green color is that high or low that color isnt on the box.
Answer:
That would indicate a high reading above the highest block.
Do your test strips give proper readings for a saline pool?
Thanks
Answer:
Yes - any chlorine test strips/kits also work in salt pools.
when do our free pool test kits come in
Answer:
They may take up to 7 to 10 days for delivery.
I use a HOA Community pool....pool maintenance done 2x a week by outside
pool company....babies in diapers use this pool ...is this sanitary?
will secondary fecses and urine be harmful....how is water quality monitored? Can I test the water? how? safe levels? Should pool be closed to swimmers if tested positive due to secondary baby waste? How would the pool be brought back to pristine condition?
ThankYou for your help, Jim
Answer:
Absolutely you should test the water. The two key parameters are free chlorine and pH. Free chlorine should be about 1 to 3 ppm, but not greater than about 5 ppm. The pH should be between 7.2 and 7.8. If there is a problem from fecal contamination it will require at least 24 hours to remedy. The solution is typically a very high chlorine level for at least that amount of time plus however long it takes for the level to come down to a safe, swimmable level.
What makes the bottom of my pool slippery at times
Answer:
This can be due to unbalanced pH even for a short time. It can also be related to filtration issues or algae, which would typically be visible.
The pool at my gym is sometimes quite cloudy and you cannot see the X on the wall in front of you. Other days, it is crystal clear. Why the difference? Should I avoid the pool on 'cloudy' days?
Answer:
There are many reasons why a pool can become cloudy and many of them are not necessarily health concerns. Test the water for free chlorine and pH to be sure the water is safe to get in. Constant cloudy water may indicate a bigger issue and if you have any discomfort it is time to get out.
My pool in not clear, is that okay?
Answer:
It may be safe to swim if chlorine and pH are properly balanced. However, cloudy water may be indicating other potential problems such as build up in your plumbing and equipment.
what is wrong if the pool is foggy? I tested the water and it was fine. We did take the filter out and cleaned it off could this be the problem? Do we need a new filter?
Answer:
It could be due to filtration but could also be due to other water parameters not regularly tested such as high calcium hardness or high total dissolved solids (TDS). A quality pool dealer can test for everything and help you eliminate any chemical issue before you replace your filter or filter media.
does a salt filter adapter really work?
Answer:
I assume you mean a salt cell adapter that allows you to use salt to produce chlorine. Yes they work and can lower the maintenance required due to regular chlorine dosage. However, do consider the overall cost which includes upfront cost of the unit and replacement of the cell every 3 to 5 years.
rust in water
Answer:
Several factors can cause rust in the water. If your pH is low, your water is likely corrosive and will attack and eventually rust metal parts in the pool, including costly equipment. Also, low hardness levels can cause your water to be corrosive, therefore do not fill the pool or hot tub with soft water. Last, a level of metal in the water, such as iron, can lead to rust and can typically be handled by the addition of a metal removing agent and/or vaccuuming up particulate that has already come out of solution.
The pool is full of algae, we keep adding shock with chlorine in it to try and get the algae out and it is not working what do we need to do?
Answer:
Chlorine is an important part of getting rid of the algae, but you also need to consider the filtration/circulation of the water and a healthy pH. The filter should run 24/7 until the water is clear and make sure the water is reaching all the pockets of the pool so that algae is not allowed to continue to grow in an area that is untouched by the chlorinated water. The pH should also be balanced in order for the other chemicals, chlorine included, to be able to work effeciently. Last, you may want to get an algaecide to assist your chlorine. Choose an algaecide that treats the type of algae you have present.
I filled my pool with our well water and a lot of iron did come out. I have been working on it and have gotten most of it out by vacuuming and stirring it up and changing the filter. There is still some in there. Is it dangerous for the kids to be swimming in it?
Answer:
It is probably safe for swimmers to get in the water. The only real risk is the staining that the metals can leave behind. A metal removing chemical can aid in removing the metals as well.
our pool is green and we have tried everything to get it clear. Baking soda, algecide, chlorine tabs, EVERYTHING!!! please help! the bottom of the pool is not slimy just the water is green
Answer:
Certainly chemistry is an important part of eliminating green water, most likely from algae. However, it is also important that proper filtration is taking place. You may need to clean or replace filtration media or cartridge and run the filter (pump) 24/7 until it clears up. If everything is in order for proper circulation/filtration then it is time to take a closer look at the chemistry. There are chemical treatments that specifically address green water, most of which work in conjunction with your chlorine chemistry (tabs and shock). You may want to try some shock to supplement the tabs if you have not done that to make sure that you establish a chlorine residual.
blond kids hair turns green in my pool.
Answer:
Green hair for swimmers is typically a result of metals present in the swimming pool (also reacting with other pool chemicals present). The most common metal to cause this issue is copper. Use a metal agent to remove the metal from the water and you should see this problem go away.
PS - the copper may be coming from the heat exchanger (if you have a heater). That would mean that you have corrosive water and need to determine the source (maybe low pH).
does the sunshine burn algae off after several cloudt days?
Answer:
Probably not. Algae is like any other plant that requires a certain amount of light for growth. A better remedy is to shock (superchlorinate) or add some combination of algaecide and shock to ensure that the algae is taken care of.
Every spring we chase ducks out of our gunite pool every morning. We also often have frogs. We are now fighting small black algae spots around the pool which we are told is from things like ducks and frogs. We have tried the black algae treatment recommended by the pool store but it hasn't helped much. I've heard we may need to drain the pool and bleach the pool. Any other suggestions?
Answer:
Treating these small black algae spots can be difficult. There is one thing you have not mentioned that can really help and that is disturbing the black algae spots. Brush the spots with a stiff brush to break down its outer coating and make it more vulnerable to the chlorine and black algae treatments. Also, if you can direct the water circulation toward the affected area, this can help the chemicals to penetrate. If this does not work and before draining, make sure to spot test on higher up algae to make sure that you can treat the algae as prescribed and that it is not some stain other than black algae.
It is almost the end of June & our above ground pool hasn't been opened up for the summer. Mainly because the pool water is green!!! We have used pool shock (liquid) but all it did was turn the water a lighter shade of green. Please help! dian
Answer:
Once you have established algae (probably the cause of your green water), chlorine shock alone may not be the best approach. There are chemicals specifically formulated to treat algae, often with the aid of chlorine shock. Certain algaecides actually target green algae as may be evident by their name. Try using one of these algaecides in conjunction with your pool shock and you will see much better results clearing up the water much more quickly.
What does "ph" do for my pool?
Answer:
pH is the measure of how acidic or alkaline your water is. A pH of 7.0 is considered neutral. Anything above 7.0 is considered basic or alkaline and anything below 7.0 is acidic. The farther from 7.0, the more acidic or basic the water is. The pool is best maintained at a slightly basic pH between 7.2 and 7.8. This provides comfort for your swimmers, makes your chemicals work effectively and protects the equipment on your pool.
Hi I have filled my pool with water but the water has a muddy look to it. This is the way the city water looks so we don't drink it at all is there anything I can do to clear it up?
Answer:
It may depend on what is causing the "muddy look" to the water. For example, if it is caused by metals such as iron, a sequestering agent may be needed to remove the metal from the water (before adding chlorine). However, most cloudy water from the city tap can be superchlorinated (or shocked) with chlorine in order to clear up the water. It is best to determine what is causing the muddy look and then figure out how to deal directly with the problem.
Is it bad if the pool smells like strong chlorine?
Answer:
Typically yes. The chlorine odor comes from chlorine that has combined with wastes in the water and formed "combined chlorine." This form of chlorine is unwanted in the swimming pool and when it builds up so does the odor and skin and eye irritation that comes along with it. It may be an indicator of a lack of the good kind of chlorine (known as free available chlorine) present in the water. The saying in the industry goes . . . "if you can smell the chlorine, you need to add more chlorine." By adding more chlorine it will oxidize the combined chlorine and get rid of it from the pool.
My pool is cleaned with a copper ionizer. The readings for copper and pH are always good. How can I be sure there is no unhealthy bacteria
Answer:
Even with a copper ionizer system it is a good idea to maintain a low level of chlorine or bromine in order to prevent any unhealthy bacteria. You can typically maintain a lower level of chlorine or bromine because the copper is taking on some of the sanitizer workload, but you should at least have some low level present.
The pool at my apartment complex has black dots of mold growing on all the walls of the pool. The maintenance people seem to think that shocking the pool, throwing handfuls of chlorine in the pool. is all they need to keep the pool clean. Obviously that is not working. How dangerous is that mold or whatever it is growing on the pool? I have a 7 year old that LOVES to swim. I think I should keep him out. The pool is often cloudy and the filter isn't running...am I over reacting?
Answer:
You are not overreacting. The visual inspection of the swimming pool water is often very indicative of the overall water quality. Cloudy, moldy water is obviously not well balanced, regardless of whether or not chlorine is added. I would recommend that the mold problem be dealt with before swimming, unless very small pockets can be avoided all together. The filtration issue may be cause for the mold. Pockets of stagnant water may grow mold because the filter is not running and sanitized water is not coming in contact in that area. Not having filtration can lead to big problems.
The pool may or may not be safe to swim in. One way to be sure is to test the chlorine and pH before letting your son swim. If they are both in range it is probably safe to swim (again once the mold is under control). Any time you experience irritation (eye, skin, etc.) it is probably time to get out.
i'm new to the pool thing. just got a 12x30 pool what do i need to keep it going through the summer
Answer:
The most important thing to keep your pool going is a sanitizer such as chlorine. A good sanitizer will prevent waterborne illness and keep the water clear and clean. It is also important to keep the pH balanced to protect the equipment and keep your swimmers comfortable (no skin and eye irritation).
There are are other factors to consider as in the response below.
Total alkalinity - This is the measure of the alkaline buffers in the water that prevent pH from fluctuating suddenly. Always check and adjust the alkalinity before you balance the pH.
Cyanuric acid - Also known as stabilizer or conditioner, this chemical is important for outdoor pools that use chlorine. Cyanuric acid protects the chlorine from the sun's UV rays so that it lasts longer in your swimming pool.
Last but not least, you should test your water twice a week to make sure your chemicals are properly balanced. Test strips are simple and easy to use for this purpose. When these parameters are not balanced, that is when problems occur.
My kids have swimmer's ear again, they get it every year. We check our chlorine and ph everyday, within normal limits. Is there something else we should be checking? Or adding to the water?
Answer:
You are doing the right things by checking your disinfectant and pH levels. However, there are additional steps you can take to protect yourself and your children from swimmer's ear. This is a focus of the Center for Disease Control and Prevention this year and there is great information on the CDC website. http://www.cdc.gov/healthywater/swimming/rwi/illnesses/swimmers-ear.html.
When I use stain removing products (like Jack's Magic) that contain phosphoric acid, I have trouble keeping a chlorine balance in my pool. Is there some type of interaction going on here?
Answer:
There may be an interaction going on. When using phosphoric acid based stain removal products you may want to try adding a phosphate remover to see if that helps lower the chlorine demand. Phosphates will also feed algae in your swimming pool if an outbreak occurs.
are pool chlorine generators from table salt really effective?
Answer:
Pool chlorine generators can be very effective. They continuously produce chlorine which can lower the cost and maintainence of adding chlorine regularly. However, there is different maintenance required with these systems. Find out how long the "cell" will last and the cost of replacement. This may offset any cost savings from lowering your chlorine usage. Also, test and balance your other parameters regularly - pH total alkalinity and cyanuric acid (stabilizer). The chlorine generator does not prevent the need to keep these other parameters balanced for water clarity and equipment protection.
We have a small 512 gallon pool for our family (2 adults and 3 preschoolers). It's too much water to dump and refill every night. What chemicals do we need to keep it healthy? We are new to this and not sure what is needed and what is just an "extra". Thanks for your help!
Answer:
There are so many pool chemicals out there that it is hard to know what the basic needs are. In fact, books have been written about this question. Here's my quick response. The two most important parameters are sanitizer and pH.
Sanitizer - Swimming pools require some form of sanitizer, such as chlorine to protect swimmers. The sanitizer kills all bacteria, algae, disease-causing organisms, and any other uninvited guests (except for in-laws) that might find their way into your pool.
pH - This is the most critical water balance parameter. The lower the pH, the more acidic the water. Balancing the pH prevents corrosion and scale build-up on equipment. It also helps your other chemicals work properly to keep the water clean and clear and protects the swimmers' skin and eyes from irritation.
There are other factors to consider, especially if you will be reusing the same water all season, which is certainly possible.
Total alkalinity - This is the measure of the alkaline buffers in the water that prevent pH from fluctuating suddenly. Always check and adjust the alkalinity before you balance the pH.
Cyanuric acid - Also known as stabilizer or conditioner, this chemical is important for outdoor pools that use chlorine. Cyanuric acid protects the chlorine from the sun's UV rays so that it lasts longer in your swimming pool.
Last but not least, you should test your water twice a week to make sure your chemicals are properly balanced. Test strips are simple and easy to use for this purpose. When these parameters are not balanced, that is when problems occur.
I've been told that when dogs urinate in swimming pools, the water turns green over time. Is there enough veracity in this statement to merit disallowing my dog to swim in our swimming pool?
Answer:
Allowing your dog to swim in your swimming pool does not mean that you are going to have green water. However, as you already pointed out your dog is urinating in your swimming pool, they can't help it. The bigger the dog, the bigger the . . . amount of chlorine needed to neutralize the contaminants. Also, your dog most likely contributes more contaminants than your average swimmer, maybe a lot more. Therefore, if you constantly allow the dog in the swimming pool you will need to add more chlorine and shock (superchlorinate) more often so that your pool does not turn green with algae when your chlorine gets used up.
Is there any way to get rid of nitrogen in the pool?
Answer:
Yes. Nitrogen can be removed from the pool. However, some forms of nitrogen are much more difficult to remove than others. First, all organic contaminants contain some nitrogen. Leaves, grass, oils, sweat, urine, etc. contain nitrogen compounds such as urea and ammonia. These contaminants can be removed with an effective sanitizer/oxidizer such as chlorine. Shock or superchlorination (adding an extra large dose of chlorine - 5 to 10 ppm) may be required.
Other forms of nitrogen, such as nitrate nitrogen, can be much more problematic. These can also be removed, but may require a more drastic removal process such as draining part of the water and refilling with fresh, nitrate-free water.